Thursday, 28 December 2017

Madame de Maintenon's Apartment

Madame de Maintenon's apartments underwent a massive transformation in 2014 where they were transformed from the dull, bare rooms to a décor much more in tune with what it would have been. The transformation was done in preparation for an exhibition of china at Versailles.

The photos of the exhibition are by M. de Noisy

First Antechamber



This is how it looked before



Second Antechamber






Bedroom


Billedresultat for grand cabinet de madame de maintenon


Billedresultat for grand cabinet de madame de maintenon
This is from a different exhibition

Passage
Not much to show here, I'm afraid

Grand Cabinet

Billedresultat for grand cabinet de madame de maintenon

Tuesday, 26 December 2017

The First Ladies-of-Honour to the Queen

The First Lady-of-Honour to the queen held the second-highest position in the queen's household. She was only surpassed by the superintendent whom she would act on behalf of in the latter's absence. Consequently, she received her own wages and had right to an apartment at court - she was also frequently in the presence of the queen.

Marie Thérèse

Susanne de Baudéan de Neuillant de Parabere, Duchesse de Navailles
Tenure: 1660-1664
Husband: Philippe de Montaut-Bénac de Navailles

She was immensely loyal to her queen and deeply resented the king's habit of using the maids-of-honour for his liaisons. She even went so far as to lock their chamber doors at night leaving the king to leave unsatisfied. It was finally enough when she confronted the king on religious grounds. This eventually irritated the king so much that he got rid of her. Both her and her husband were exiled to their country estates but were called back in 1666 due to the interference of Anne of Austria. 

Duchesse de Navailles

Julie d'Argennes, Duchesse de Montausier
Tenure: 1664-1671
Husband: Charles de Saint-Maure

She was also made governess to the Children of France and was a very good friend of Madame de Montespan. The two would often share chambers while traveling with the king and that was very much the case when the court followed the king on the campaigned that began his relationship with La Montespan. Julie was later accused of having acted as a go-between in an anonymous letter to the queen; however, she managed to convince Her Majesty that no such thing was happening.

Duchesse de Montausier

Anne Poussard de Fors du Vigean, Duchesse de Richelieu
Tenure: 1671-1679
Husband: Armand Jean de Vignerot du Plessis

She also acted in this capacity to the Grande Dauphine. Anne was also a friend of Madame de Montespan and it was thanks to her that La Montespan was reconciled with the queen during the separation between her and Louis XIV. Naturally, this earned her the gratitude of both the king and Madame de Montespan especially when their affair was resumed.
Apparently, she had a knack for befriending women close to the queen because she also managed to become close to Madame de Maintenon. During the Affair of the Poisons her husband's mistress was accused of attempting to poison her.

Anne-Armande de Saint-Gelais de Lansac, Duchesse de Crèquy
Tenure: 1679-1680
Husband: Charles III de Crèquy

She was the last appointee to this post before the queen's death and she did not serve until then. Anne-Armande was widowed in 1680 and she left court thereafter. 

Marie Leszczynska

Catherine-Charlotte de Gramont, Duchesse de Boufflers
Tenure: 1725-1735
Husband: Louis François de Boufflers

She was known for her very strict morals which may have suited the religious queen.

OBS: not to be confused with the Princesse de Monaco


Marie Brûlart, Duchesse de Luynes
Tenure:1735-1763
Husband: Charles Philippe de Luynes

When Marie Leszczynska abolished the office of superintendent in 1741, she became the most powerful woman in the queen's household. Both her and her husband were initially suspicious of Madame de Pompadour but eventually came to like her.


Anne Claude Louise d'Arpajon, Comtesse de Noailles
Tenure: 1763
Husband: Philippe de Noailles

She never got to remain long in her position since she was appointed in the same year as the queen died. This meant that she was simply transferred to the household of Marie Antoinette seven years later.

Louis Surugue - Charlotte Gaucher de Mouchy.jpg
Comtesse de Noailles

Marie Antoinette

Anne Claude Louise d'Arpajon, Comtesse de Noailles
Tenure:
Husband: Philippe de Noailles

Nicknamed "Madame Etiquette" by the newly arrived Dauphine; she would end her life on the guillotine like her mistress. Before that, in 1774, she was fired from this post by Marie Antoinette which drove the Comtesse to join the new queen's critics.

Laure-Auguste de Fitzjames, Princesse de Chimay
Tenure: 1775-1789
Husband: Philippe-Gabriel-Maurice d'Alsace-Hénin-Liétard

She was appointed as a companion to Marie Antoinette when she arrived as Dauphine. Marie Antoinette reinstated the office of superintendent for the Princesse de Lamballe in 1775 which meant that Laure-Auguste was demoted to second ranking. She accompanied the royal family in 1789 but eventually fled due to her extreme unpopularity in Paris. 

Princesse of Chimay by Van Loo.jpg
Princesse de Chimay

Geneviève de Gramont, Comtesse d'Ossun
Tenure: 1791-1792
Husband: Charles d'Ossun

She remained with the royal family when they were imprisoned in Paris. This would prove to be her own downfall. She was arrested and guillotined for not having informed the authorities of the impending flight to Varennes.

Sunday, 24 December 2017

The Tragedy of the Comtesse de Stainville

Thérèse de Clermont d'Amboise had become Comtesse de Stainville by her marriage to Jacques Philippe de Choiseul-Stainville in 1761. The marriage proved to be unhappy and both parties sought romance elsewhere - Thérèse found hers not far from home. Her first liaison was with the Duc de Lauzun (her husband's cousin) but it was when her eyes fell on a young actor, Clairval, that everything fell apart.

While the Comtesse had been discreet in her dealings with the Duc de Lauzun, she was more carried away by her feelings for the actor. Surprisingly, it was Lauzun who undertook the role of intermediate between the two. He instantly recognized the danger that the affair would bring his mistress in. One thing was for a woman to have a liaison; her husband could legally lock her up in a convent for that. Another thing was for a noble woman to engage herself with a commoner.

Lauzun went to Thérèse and attempted to make her see reason. He succeeded as far as extracting a promise from her to break things off but it did not last long. Then, the Duc went to Clairval himself and tried the same again. He, too, promised to end the affair. But in vain.

The couple soon reunited and did little to hide their affair. The Comtesse was living in her own establishment at the time but rumours travelled quickly and servants saw everything. Soon, word of the liaison reached the Comte de Stainville who was stationed at Metz. It is most likely that he learned of the business from his brother, the Duc de Choiseul.
Unfortunately, Jacques Philippe was a man of his age and believed that while his own affairs were to be tolerated, those of his wife were not. He was infuriated at learning of his wife's infidelity and decided to exercise his rights as a husband.

It happened at a ball. Madame de Mirepoix - who was "still crazy for pleasure" - played hostess to a ball where the Comtesse de Stainville was expected to be the queen of the evening. The ball was to lead up to a ballet. The ballet was a lavish affair; extravagant costumes depicting the wonders of the Far East. Everything was rehearsed over and over again - and Madame de Stainville never missed a rehearsal.

The Comte de Stainville arrived back in Paris the day before the ball was to commence and wasted no time in confronting his wife. A violent scene followed in which he made it clear that he was going to lock her up in a convent. 
Beforehand, friends of the Comte had attempted to reason with him. If not for his wife's sake, then the scandal alone could be an incentive. However, it was all in vain.

The Comtesse de Stainville (right) and
the Duchesse de Gramont

On the night of 20th-21st January 1767 the Comtesse de Stainville was forcibly placed in a carriage and taken to Nantes. Here, he placed her in the Convent of the Filles de Sainte Marie.

The Comtesse was not the only one to be imprisoned. Both her hand-maiden and a footman were both dispatched to separate institutes on suspicions of having been in their mistress' confidence. 

The ball took place as planned and a new queen was found. But the dreaded scandal had already spread so far that it was the main topic of conversation. Everyone was in agreement that the Comte had acted most villainously; pity was completely reserved for his wife who was viewed as a victim. Despite everyone's lamentations there was nothing to be done. The Comte had acted completely in accordance with the law. The Comtesse could not even appeal to the king; he had granted the Comte de Stainville a lettre de cachet permitting his actions.

By 18th September 1767 it was reported that Thérèse had fallen seriously ill. It was said that the doctors had not treated her properly and that she needed to go to Paris for the correct care - but nothing happened. She must have recovered, though, for she lived for many years to come.

The beautiful Comtesse de Stainville was never to set foot outside of the convent. True to his word, the Comte had her confined to the convent until she died in 1789.

Thursday, 21 December 2017

The Jewels of the Crown of 1691

In September 1691 the Crown Jewels of France was entered into an inventory that survives to this day. The inventory is divided into chapters which I have chosen to copy here. These included the following:

Chapter I
Three of the crown's most precious stones were reserved for the use of the king. These were the Sancy valued at 600.000 pounds, the Bleu de France estimated at 400.000 pounds, and a large sapphire worth 40.000 livres. Both the Bleu de France and the sapphire could be fitted onto golden enameled sticks.

Louis XIV usually wore the Sancy in his hat while the Bleu de France and the sapphire were used for pins. The Bleu de France was worn by the king in his cravat for grand state occasions. When he received the ambassador of Persia in 1715 he wore both the Sancy and the Bleu de France.


The Sancy which would be worn as a hat pin

Chapter II
45 diamonds made up a magnificent necklace connected by hooks. Of these 44 were table-cut (meaning that the top had been cut off, creating a flat surface) while a single diamond remained uncut. This one weighed 8 1/2 carat. 
This necklace held some of the most splendid diamonds in the crown's possession. Included some diamonds inherited from Cardinal Mazarin: the Mirror of Portugal, the Grand Mazarin, and the Mazarins II, VIII, X, XII, XIII and XIV. Another famous diamond was de Guise. The combined value of the diamonds were 1,996,000 pounds.


The Jewels of the Napoleon Diamond Necklace
Although this particular necklace was commissioned by
Napoleon Bonaparte it shows the same type of necklace -
diamonds connected by hooks



Chapter III
The king owned 123 buttons for his justaucorps and no less than 300 so-called "boutonnières"; these were decorations worn by men in their buttonholes. Of these 151 of the 300 consisted of five diamonds and were valued at 3738 pounds each. The remaining 149 were single diamonds worth 2500 pounds each. This meant that the king's boutonnières were worth 936,938 pounds.

Nineteen fleurons were worth 787,495 pounds while another 48 buttons amounted to 185,136 pounds.

Furthermore, the king had to have the orders of the kingdom. Two Orders of Saint-Esprit were in the king's possession: one was for pinning on the blue sash (cordon bleu) and the other to fasten on the king's coat.
The cross of this order was made up of 112 diamonds. The order was shaped as a dove the body of which was a brilliant (35,000 pounds) and two wings of brilliants (42.000 pounds). The combined value of the piece was 150,750 pounds.

Billedresultat for louis xiv ordre de saint-esprit
The Order of the Saint-Esprit on a cordon bleu (not the
one that Louis XIV owned, though)

The queen also had her own orders. On state occasions she would be adorned with the cordon bleu fastened by a cross. The cross was made of 120 diamonds worth 155,666 pounds.

The inventory also mentions a sort of aigrette made up of seven large diamonds. The largest - placed in the centre - had been brought to France by the jeweler Tavernier and measured 43 carats. That one alone cost 200.000 pounds while the entire aigrette had a value of 470.000 pounds.

Today, most people know of the ill-fated Hope diamond. Before it got that name it was a part of Louis XIV's Crown Jewels. The king would wear it on his cravat.

Chapter IV
This chapter focuses on a vast set of gemstones in every colour imaginable. The set - referred to as a "parure" - consisted of another staggering amount of buttons:

  • 168 buttons for the waistcoat
  • 336 boutonnières for the waistcoat 
  • 19 fleurons for the coat
  • 48 buttons and 96 boutonnières for the coat
  • A cross of the Order of the Saint-Esprit
  • A bejewelled sword with 66 coloured stones and 137 diamonds
  • Two pairs of garter buckles
  • An aigrette
The complete cost of these: 940,070 pounds

This 1670 portrait of Louis XIV show him
wearing two bejewelled garters

Chapter V
During time of mourning the king would often don himself with a set of pearls and diamonds. 130 coat buttons, 19 boutonnières and an aigrette made up the mourning set. The total value of this set amounted to 1,499,713 pounds.

Chapter VI
The crown owned two more aigrettes that were not counted amongst the previous chapters. One was of seven large diamonds (perhaps this is why it is not mentioned before since it may be confused with the other aigrette of seven diamonds). The diamonds were cut to specifically fit the aigrette; the worth of the jewel was 188,290 pounds.
The other might seem rather small in comparison; a single diamond made up the aigrette. However, this diamond had a beautiful "peach blossom" hue to it which made it spectacular in itself. Its worth was 43,866 pounds.

Chapter VII
Anne of Austria brought a pearl necklace with her to Versailles. It held 25 round pearls imported from the Far East and was estimated to be worth 250.000 pounds. Interestingly, it contained the so-called "Queen of pearls" which Louis XIV had purchased in 1669 and presumably gifted to his mother. The pearl originated from Bazu and valued at 90.000 livres.

Detail of Anne of Austria wearing a pearl
necklace - however the "Queen of Pearls"
is not featured since the portrait is from 1639
- 30 years before it was bought

Chapter VIII
Four pairs of earrings were recorded in this eighth chapter. 

The first pair were girandole earrings and had four diamonds on each earring. These were not just any diamonds but had the fourth and fifth Mazarin diamond in one earring and the sixth Mazarin as well as the Richelieu diamond in the other. Their value was 500.000 pounds.

Not much is mentioned about the second pair other than that it also had four diamonds on each earring. The worth was also noted: 250.00 pounds. Given the prize in comparison to the first pair it is likely that these were smaller.

The third pair were also girandoles. Each earring's loop was shaped like a pearl and held three pearls attached to four diamonds. The diamonds were neatly facetted. The combined cost was 53,400 pounds.

The final pair were girandoles consisting of 11 diamonds on each earring. The value of the stones were 44,000 pounds.

Chapter IX
Three hair pins were described in this chapter at a combined value of 41,000 pounds. The most precious - at 20,000 pounds - was a yellow heart-shaped diamond. The second was a rose-coloured diamond also cut into the shape of a heart; this one was worth 11,000 pounds. The last was cut into a point and was described as having the "colour of hay" and cost 10.000 pounds.

Chapter X
A new sword is the only object in this final chapter. It was made from Damascene steel and had a gold handle richly decorated with gemstones. These stones counted 131 diamonds and 20 small diamonds. The stones were worth a combined 23,769 pounds



So, the royal family of France had quite an impressive treasure chest. To sum up the many numbers above, the Crown Jewels consisted of:
  • 5885 diamonds
  • 1588 gemstones
    • These were referred to as "coloured stones" and includes sapphires, rubies, emeralds etc. One of the most famous was the blue sapphire of Louis XIV
  • 488 pearls (including the "Queen of Pearls"

The total value: 11,430,481 pounds! 

Saturday, 16 December 2017

The House of du Crussol

The family originated in Languedoc and spread into three distinct branches: the Duc d'Uzès, the Marquis du Crussol and de Montausier and the Marquis de Florensac. Of these three branches the main one was that of the dukedom of d'Uzès. 

Duc d'Uzès

This branch was first granted the title of Vicomte d'Uzès, then Comte and finally Duc in the 16th century. Following the beheading of the Duc de Montmorency in 1632, the Duc d'Uzès was made first peer in France. The family from the reign of Louis XIV to the revolution was:

I. Emmanuel I de Crussol and (I) Claudie Hébrard de Saint-Sulpice, (II) Marguerite de Flagheac

Emmanuel also held the titles of Prince de Soyons, Comte de Crussol and Baron de Lévis de Florensac. He carried the royal crown at the funeral of Louis XIII.

Children of Emmanuel and Claudie:
  • François de Crussol, Duc d'Uzès
  • Armand de Crussol
  • Jacques Christophe de Crussol, Marquis de Saint-Sulpice
  • Alexandre-Galliot de Crussol d'Uzès, Marquis de Monsalez
  • Anne-Gaston de Crussol d'Uzès, Baron de Forensic
  • Louise de Crussol d'Uzès, Marquise de Portes
Children of Emmanuel and Marguerite:

  • Armand de Crussol d'Uzès, Comte d'Uzès


II. François de Crussol and (I) Henriette de la Châtre, (II) Marguerite d'Apchier

François was of great importance in annexing the area of Rousillon into France through the Treaty of the Pyrenees. Both he and Marguerite were present at the wedding of Louis XIV to Marie Thérèse in 1660 - incidentally, the same year of their own marriage.
The couple would enjoy great favour at the court of Louis XIV. He gave them the honours of the Louvre which allowed them to drive their carriages all the way to the palace doors and permitted Marguerite to sit in front of the queen. 

François and Henriette had no children since she died shortly after their marriage.

François and Marguerite had seven children:
  • Emmanuel II de Crussol, Duc d'Uzès
  • Louis de Crussol - founded the branch titled Marquis de Florensac
  • Galliot de Crussol, Abbot of d'Uzès
  • Marguerite de Crussol, Carmelite nun
  • Anne-Louise de Crussol, nun
  • Marie-Rose de Crussol, first Comtesse de Laudun, then Marquis de Murviel 
  • Suzanne de Crussol, Abbess of d'Hyères
Billedresultat for Claudie Hébrard de Saint-Sulpice
François

III. Emmanuel II de Crussol and Marie-Julie de Sainte-Maure-Montausier

Emmanuel inherited his father's title of Duc d'Uzès and Marie-Julie held the title of Marquise de Montausier in her own name. It was then passed on to her second son.

Marie-Julie was in charge of the Grand Dauphin's wardrobe; she was reprimanded by Louis XIV for introducing new fashions into the young boy's style. She had been introduced to Anne of Austria as a child and had charmed her so much that the queen-mother invited her father to court to assist in negotiating the king's marriage.

The couple was separated in 1685.

The couple had eight children:
  • Louis de Crussol d'Uzès, Duc d'Uzès
  • Julie Françoise de Crussol d'Uzès, Marquise de Montespan
  • Jean Charles de Crussol d'Uzès, Duc d'Uzès
  • Louis de Crussol d'Uzès, Abbot of Uzès
  • François de Crussol d'Uzès, Marquis de Montausier
  • Felix-Louis de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Catherine Louise de Crussol d'Uzès, Marquise de Barbezieux
  • Thérèse-Marguerite de Crussol d'Uzès
Billedresultat for Emmanuel II de Crussol
Emmanuel II

IV. Jean Charles de Crussol d'Uzès and (I) Anne Hippolyte Grimaldi, (II) Marguerite de Bullion,

Jean Charles was made colonel of the regiment named after his family; however, he was obliged to leave this post after a bad fall from his horse during a battle. It was he who carried the king's standard in Louis XIV's last meeting with the Paris parliament in 1715.

Jean and Anne had two children:
  • Marguerite de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Anne Charlotte de Crussol d'Uzès

Billedresultat for Emmanuel I de Crussol
Jean-Charles

Jean and Marguerite had eight children:
  • Charles Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès, Duc d'Uzès
  • Anne Marie Louise de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Louis Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès
  • François Alexandre de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Anne Louise Hortense de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Anne Marie Antoinette de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Anne Julie Françoise de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Anne Charlotte Emilie de Crussol d'Uzès

V. Charles Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès and Émilie de La Rochefoucauld

The couple had three children:

  • François-Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès, Duc d'Uzès
  • Charles-Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Charlotte-Émile de Crussol d'Uzès, Duchesse de Rohan



Charles Emmanuel
VI. François-Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès and Magdeleine de Pardaillan de Gondrin

François-Emmanuel served during the Seven Years' War as a colonel of the regiment named after this family. He was later promoted to Marèchal de camp.

Magdeleine was a direct descendant of Madame de Montespan through her marriage to the Duc de Montespan.

The couple had two children:

  • Marie Charlotte de Crussol d'Uzès
  • François de Crussol d'Uzès, Duc d'Uzès
Billedresultat for duc d'Uzés
François Emmanuel

VII. Marie-François-Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès and Émilie de Châtillon

Marie-François-Emmanuel was a colonel of the Berry-regiment until the revolution. He then emigrated to serve under Condé's army. He would later travel to the court of Russia.


Émille was Duchesse de Châtillon in her own right. Ironically, she was a descendant of Louise de La Vallière - one can only wonder if it caused any disputes with her mother-in-law?

They had two children:

  • Adrien-François-Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Alexandrine-Céleste de Crussol d'Uzès
Billedresultat for Marie-François-Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès
Marie-François-Emmanuel
Amable Emilie de CHÂTILLON
Émilie



Marquis de Florensac

I. Louis de Crussol de Florensac and Marie Louise Thérèse de Senneterre de Châteauneuf

Louis was the son of the second Duc d'Uzès
Marie was the daughter of the Marquis de Châteauneuf 

The couple had two children:
  • François Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès, Marquis de Florensac
  • Anne Charlotte de Crussol d'Uzès, Duchesse d'Aiguillon 
Madame la marquise de Florensac (A. Trouvain).tiff
Marie Louise Thérèse
II. François Emmanuel de Crussol de Florensac and Marguerite Colbert de Villacerf
François died at the age of just 25 years old

The couple had one child:
  • Pierre Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès

III. Pierre Emmanuel de Crussol de Florensac and Marguerite Charlotte Fleuriau
Pierre served in the army first in Germany and then in Corsica. In 1750 he was made royal envoy to the Duke of Parma - Louis XV's son-in-law.
The couple had three children:
  • Henri-Charles de Crussol d'Uzès
  • Alexandre-Charles de Crussol d'Uzès
  • A daughter

IV. Alexandre-Charles de Crussol de Florensac and Bonne Anne Marie Josephine Bernard de Boulainvilliers 

Alexandre-Charles chose a career in the army since he was not expected to inherit the title. His first post was as captain of the bodyguard of the Comte d'Artois. He was a successful courtier and even participated in the theatricals in Marie Antoinette's theatre. He emigrated during the revolution, first to Switzerland, then Rome and finally Florence where he continued to support the Bourbon-family. He returned to France at the restoration.

The couple had no children

Image illustrative de l'article Alexandre-Charles-Emmanuel de Crussol
Alexandre-Charles
Billedresultat for Emmanuel I de Crussol
Anne Marie Josephine




Interesting facts and anecdotes:

  • Anne-Charlotte de Crussol de Florensac was celebrated for her salon and frequently corresponded with Montesquieu 
  • The Duc de Saint-Simon described Marie Louise Thérèse de Senneterre de Châteauneuf (first Marquise de Florensac) as "the most beautiful woman in France"
  • Two men from the family - Alexandre Charles de Crussol d'Uzès and Emmanuel Henri Charles de Crussol - became deputies to the Estates Général in 1789
  • Anne Emmanuel François Georges de Crussol d'Uzès was guillotined on 26 July 1794

Portrait gallery:

François Emmanuel de Crussol d'Uzès,
Archbishop of La Rochelle

Monday, 11 December 2017

Cardinal Mazarin's Jewel Collection

Cardinal Mazarin used his immense wealth and influence to amass collections of art greater than that of the king himself. One of his most prized collections consisted of 18 exceptional gemstones. These magnificent stones were known as the Mazarins. Upon his death in 1661 the Cardinal left his diamonds to Louis XIV - thus, they became a part of the crown's royal jewels. 

Cardinal Mazarin had the twelve largest stones carved according to the fashions of the time; this mainly resulted in cutting the surface into many small facets - the Sancy is an excellent example. One of the stones was called Boin-Taburet but which is lost to history.

The Cardinal's love for gemstones went further than a simple admiration for their raw appearance. Like his royal master, Louis XIV, Cardinal Mazarin liked to create something of his own. He employed specific masters in the art of diamond-cutting who were set up in Paris where they came up with a new method of cutting diamonds. This allowed the diamond to reflect the light from within. It also made the outside light bend and refract off of the facets - thus, they sparkled more. Naturally, this was named the Mazarin cut and required the stone to be cut into 12 facets.

Billedresultat for cardinal mazarin diamonds
Cardinal Mazarin

Some of these are more elaborately described in other posts, so they will only be described shortly here.

It had been the Cardinal's wish that his collection would continue to be known as the Mazarins. Thus, most are known to history by a number rather than a specific nickname. These stones were recorded in the inventory of crown both in 1691 and a century later, in 1791. Some were stolen during the revolution and has not been seen since while others were rediscovered. 
It should be noted that there are a few inconsistencies in the royal inventories. For example the carats seem to vary a bit - in some occasions the stones are recorded as larger in 1791. Furthermore, the way of measuring carat was slightly different which has led to a different carat value today.

It is also quite odd that the inventory of the royal possessions drawn up in 1774 mentions only one of the Mazarins when they are all accounted for in 1791. Clearly, they cannot have disappeared only to return again to the crown but why were they not recorded in 1774?

The Mazarin I - the Sancy
It was most likely mined in India but made its way to the crowned heads of Europe in the 16th century and probably earlier. The Sancy was the property of both James I of England and later Charles I before it ended in Cardinal Mazarin's collection. The diamond is white and cut in a pear shape. In 1691 it was measured at 53 1/2 carats and 53 12/26 in 1791. Today it is set at 55,23 carats.


The Sancy


The Mazarin II
Another white diamond the second Mazarin was in the so-called table-cut style; this basically means that the top had been cut off leaving a flat surface. It weighed 33 3/8 carats in 1691 but has shrunk considerably in 1791 when it was measured at 24 1/6 carats. Today it is estimated at 24.81 carats.


The Mazarin III - the Mirror of Portugal
The name is probably given due to the shape of the stone. It was not only table-cut but also square in shape. Combined with its white colour it is not hard to imagine the origins. It was the property of the Portuguese crown before it was sold to Elizabeth I. It disappeared during the revolution and has never been found. 
In 1691 it weighed 25 3/8 carats, in 1791 it was 21 2/16 and today it is 21.68 carats.

Replica of the Mirror of Portugal


The Mazarin IV
The fourth Mazarin stone is described as being of a "brownish" colour and formed into a heart-shape. Like the second stone, this also underwent a considerable reduction from 1691-1791 - or from 24 1/4 carats to 13 10/16 carats. Today it would be said to be 13.97 carats. It was recovered after having been stolen during the revolution.


The Mazarin V
Surprisingly, this almond-shaped diamond appears to have grown slightly in size. In 1691 it weighed 21 5/8 carats whereas the modern estimate is 22,97 carats.

The Mazarin VI
This one appears to have been a "little-sister" to the fifth stone. Like the former it was almond-shaped but weighed 18 1/4 carats in 1691, 19 12/16 in 1791 and 20,27 today.

The Mazarin VII - Le Grand Mazarin
The inventory of Louis XIV listed this one as weighing 21 carats; the revolutionaries were a bit more moderate and set to to be 18 9/16 carats. Today, a middle ground of 19,10 carats is estimated. Le Grand Mazarin is of a slightly rose colour and cut into a square. It was worn by no less than four kings, four queens, two emperors and two empresses.

Relateret billede
Le Grand Mazarin


The Mazarin VIII
A white diamond cut into a square, it weighs 15,14 carats today. In 1691 it was recorded as 18 1/4 and as 14 12/16 in 1791. This one also returned after the robbery of the Crown Jewels. 

The Mazarin IX
The ninth stone was cut in what would be known as the "marquise"-cut during Louis XV due to a rumour that it was inspired by the lips of Madame de Pompadour. It is almost estimated at the same weight today (15,27 carats) as it was in 1691 (15 1/4) but differs somewhat from the 1791-bid of 14 14/16 carats.

The Mazarin X
This is the only stone in the collection that is described as having a greyish colour. However, the shape - a square - is shared by most of the others. In 1691 it was noted as weighing 17 3/4 while both 1791 and the modern estimate aim at above 20 - 20 6/16 and 20,91 respectively. It is the only one that appears in the royal inventory of 1774 where it is described as the "tenth Mazarin" weighing 16 carats. At that time it was called a brilliant "of pure water" and valued at about 2000 §. 

The Mazarin XI 
A rectangular shape the eleventh Mazarin had a red glow to it. This is one of the stones were the estimated has been rather consistent over the years: both 1691 and 1791 rated it at 17 and today it is set at 17,45 carats.

The Mazarin XII
It appears to have been larger in 1691 (13 carats) than in 1791 (10 4/16) - today it is estimated at 10,52 carats. It, too, has a brownish hue and is square-cut.

The Mazarin XIII
Another stone that has been the victim of further cutting. Starting at 13 carats in 1691 it then went down to 10 4/16 carats in 1791 to finally 10,52 carats today. The stone was rediscovered after the burglary of the royal family's jewels.


Authentic copy of Mazarin's will that bequeathed the Mazarins to the
royal family

The Mazarin XIV
This one began at 11 1/3 and then fell to 8 7/16 before being estimated at 8,66 today. Like the Mirror of Portugal it is both square-cut and table-cut. This would make it ideal for a ring or a brooch.

The Mazarin XV
The colour of this one appears to have been somewhat uncertain as it is described as being yellow/brownish. What is clear is that it was square and table-cut. It weighed 10 3/4 in 1691, then 8 16/32 in 1791 and is finally estimated at 8,72 carats today.

The Mazarin XVI
Having gone from 8 3/4 in 1691 it quickly went to 6 which was slightly modified in modern times to 6,16 carats, it was square-cut and had also received the table-cut treatment. However, this one's yellow colour seems to have been indisputable. The last of the stones stolen to be returned.

The Mazarin XVII
Brownish in colour it was cut into a heart-shape but appears to have maintained its original weight somewhat. In 1691 it was at 21 1/2 carats, in 1791 21 6/16 and is today set at 21,94 carats. Both this and the eighteenth Mazarin made a part of Empress Eugènie's brooch.

The Mazarin XVIII
The last Mazarin is almost a twin to the seventeenth. Also brownish in hue it was likewise molded into a heart-shape. This one has a slight advantage in weight, though. From 22 carats in 1691 to 21 8/16 in 1791 it was finally decided to be 22.07 carats.



The entire collection was said to be worth 10.000.000. In 1900 two of the Mazarin stones were exhibited at the Paris Exhibition. One was described as weighing 18 11/16 carats while the other - a tad smaller - 16 9/16 carats.
GemGem

Thursday, 7 December 2017

The Crown Jewels of France

As one of the most powerful countries in Europe and a court infamous for its style, it is hardly surprising that the House of Bourbon boasted quite a collection of jewels. These included individual precious stones, pieces of jewellery and entire sets. Sadly, some were stolen during the revolution and others were sold off; most are know either owned by the French state or form a part of private collections.

This post is divided into the actual jewels themselves and the styles of the Versailles-era. Click on the images below to learn more about the individual pieces.

The Royal Jewellery 


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Crown of Louis XV
Relateret billede
Marie Antoinette's Earrings


Louis XIV's Garnet Brooch




The Crown Jewels


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Le Bleu de France


The Regent


Jewellery Collections of the Royal Family & Court


Marie Josèphe de Saxe, Dauphine de France


Jewellery Styles




Jewellery of Versailles


Diamond Brooch of Louis XIV



Galleries of Jewellery

Necklaces
Rings
Earrings
Brooches
Stomachers
Aigrettes

Portrait Jewels

Mesdames Tantes

Le Grand Mazarin

November 2017 saw one of France's most famous gemstones be put up for auction by Christie's. The diamond was mined in India (more specifically in the Golconda mines) and made its way to France where Cardinal Jules Mazarin added it to his collection. Le Grand Mazarin was the largest, square cut stone in his possession with 19.07 carats. 

The Cardinal died in 1661 and left his collection of exquisite jewels to Louis XIV. Marie Thérèse is likely the first person to have worn it as a decoration. It remained in the queen's possession until her death; Louis XIV then added it to his own chain of diamonds.

When Louis XVI ascended the throne it featured in his crown. Whether Marie Antoinette wore it is unknown. Le Grand Mazarin remained a centre piece of the French crown jewel until the revolution. By then it had been in the crown's ownership for 225 years.


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Le Grand Mazarin

Louis XVI was forced to sign over the crown's property in 1792 - including Le Grand Mazarin. While it was stored in Paris it was stolen along with almost all the royal jewels. Most of the thieves were caught and sentenced to death by the guillotine. However, one of the culprits offered to reveal the location of some of the diamonds - including La Grand Mazarin - if he was spared his life. It worked.

When Empress Marie-Louise received her new diadem it consisted of the former Crown Jewels and was topped by Le Grand Mazarin. In total the diamond has been worn by four kings, four queens, two emperors and two empresses. These include Louis XIV, Marie Thérése, Louis XV, Louis XVI, Louis XVIII, Napoleon I, Marie-Louise and Eugènie.

The final price for this famous diamond when it was sold on auction in Geneva? 14.600.000 $. When it was sold it was the first time in 130 years that the diamond has been shown outside of the private collection.

Cardinal Family Connections: The Mazarinettes

Cardinal Mazarin served Louis XIV as prime minister both during and after the tumultuous Fronde-years. Once the civil war had been won the Cardinal set about consolidating his power at court. This partially included his own personal prestige but also that of his family. Luckily for him, his family boasted of several young, beautiful women who were just ripe for the marriage market. 

In total, the Cardinal had seven brides to marry off as advantageously as possible. In 1647 he summoned his sister, Laura Margherita Mazzarini to France and included her daughters, Laura and Anne Marie Martinozzi.
His other sister, Girolama Mazzarini, had wedded the Italian Baron Lorenzo Mancini. Their union had produced no less than ten children; amongst those that survived childhood there were five girls: Laura Mancini, Hortense, Olympia, Marie and Marie Anne Mancini.


At court these seven young women were known as the Mazarinettes. They were introduced to Anne of Austria who took personal interest in the education and well-being of the young ladies.
For the time being they were installed in the royal court while their uncle searched for suitably powerful men to marry them off to - and he succeeded. 

The first to walk down the aisle was Laura Mancini. In 1651 she married Louis de Bourbon, Duc de Mercæur. This awarded her the right to be titled Serene Highness since she had married a legitimised prince. Their marriage was a success in more than one way. Both became very fond of each other and they soon produced three sons - including the Duc de Vendôme who later became a famous military leader.


Laura Mancini




Anne Marie Martinozzi gained a very prestigious marriage in 1654 when she was wedded to Armand de Bourbon, Prince de Conti. By this marriage she took precedence over her cousin, Laura Mancini, since the Prince de Conti was a Prince of the Blood whereas the Duc de Mercæur had been legitimised. She had three children but died already at the age of 35.


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Anne Marie Martinozzi




Laura Martinozzi was sent back to Italy in 1655 where she married Alfonso IV d'Este, thus becoming Duchess of Modena. If Cardinal Mazarin had been alive in 1685 he would have witnessed her daughter becoming Queen of England by marriage to James II. When her husband died in 1662 she took the role of regent.


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Laura Martinozzi



The next in line was Olympia Mancini who - like Laura Mancini - remained at the French court. Unlike her sister, she married a prince étrangere or a foreign prince. In 1657 she was married to Prince Eugène-Maurice of Savoy, Comte de Soissons. While at court she was known as Madame la Comtesse. Olympia was said to be less attractive than her sister but possessing such a personal charm that she made up for it. Unfortunately, she had a pendant for intrigue. When Louis XIV and Henriette d'Orléans sought to dispel the rumours that they were lovers, they engaged Madame la Comtesse to find a decoy. She did excellently and came up with a certain Louise de La Vallière.
She would later become the king's mistress herself for a brief period only to be abandoned by the monarch again. Her career at court came to a crashing halt when she was accused of having conspired with La Voisin to poison La Vallière during the Affair of the Poisons. Olympia was exiled and she died in Brussels. 

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Olympia Mancini



1661 saw the marriages of two Mazarinettes: Hortense and Marie Mancini.

Hortense Mancini could have become Queen of England. In 1659 Charles II proposed to her but was rejected by her capricious uncle. At the time Charles was still in exile and his prospects of becoming king were uncertain. Instead, she was married off to one of the richest men in Europe: Armand Charles de La Porte de La Meilleraye. The couple were granted the title of Duc and Duchesse de Mazarin upon their marriage.
Sadly, Hortense quickly discovered that her husband was not only violent but mentally unstable. Despite their unhappy union they managed to produce four children; nevertheless, Hortense had to leave them behind when her husband's behaviour became so erratic that she had to flee. Both Louis XIV and the Duke of Savoy offered her their protection and she chose to former. While under the Sun King's protection she travelled to England where she became the mistress of Charles II.

Hortense Mancini

While her sister discovered the misery of her newfound marriage, the court of France was buzzing with rumours. It had become very obvious that the young king was deeply in love. The source of all this was Marie Mancini. Their relationship got to a point where it was speculated that Louis would marry her. Anne of Austria had watched the development with concern; she had long planned that her son was to marry her niece, Marie Thérése of Spain. Turning to her ever-present advisor, Cardinal Mazarin, a marriage was quickly arranged. Like Laura Mazzarini, Marie was sent back to Italy. A bridegroom had been found in Lorenzo Onofrio Colonna, Prince of Colonna.
Three children came of the marriage but like her sister Marie found no happiness in wedlock. Her relationship with her husband became so unstable that she feared for her life. This eventually led to her fleeing - alongside Hortense - from Italy.

Marie Mancini



The final Mazzarinette was Marie Anne Mancini. She had been no older than six when she was brought to Paris and quickly made herself the darling of the court. It was soon determined that she was the wittiest and possibly the prettiest of the Mazzarinettes. Her marriage was one of the last thing Cardinal Mazarin ever did. On the Cardinal's death bed he was approached by Turenne who asked to marry Marie Anne to his nephew, Godefroy Maurice de La Tour d'Auvergne. The couple was married  in 1662 in front of the royal family. Marie Anne then became the Duchesse de Bouillon.
Marie Anne was somewhat luckier than Marie and Hortense had been. While her husband was neither an ideal courtier nor a great scholar, he was not openly abusive. Marie Anne was also implicated in the Affair of the Poisons - where she was accused of trying to poison her husband (so they obviously had some issues) - but she was not punished.

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Marie Anne Martinozzi